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09
January 2007
Gordon
Ramsay Roasted By New
York
Critics
Gordon
Ramsay's
first New York
restaurant has taken a
battering from food
critics.
The
celebrity chef's
American debut drew
criticism from several
writers in the city, who
complained of
"overcooked" sea
scallops and branded
lobster ravioli
"leathery" and
"rubbery".
A
mushroom risotto was
called a "distinct
disappointment" and one
reviewer hit out at the
"pitiful" lighting at
Gordon
Ramsay at The
London.
New
York Magazine's Gael
Green was the toughest
critic, writing just
days after the £3
million venture's
opening late last
year.
"The
chef's signature feint,
a luscious smoky froth
with white beans, has us
sighing, but most
everything else is a
work-in-progress," he
sniped. "Sea scallops,
slivered, then
overcooked, suggest
someone hasn't a clue
what great chefs here do
with diver scallops. We
are shocked by a
leathery lobster ravioli
and an unseemly marriage
of langoustine tails and
maple-infused chicken
(not to mention the
bill). A sophisticated
red-wine sauce might
have played off the
purity of turbot, but
steeping it in St
Emilion and too much
fire kills
it."
Mr
Green, who said he would
be back to try the
restaurant again, added:
"The gorgeous glass door
doesn't quite close, the
bathrooms don't lock,
and the lighting is
pitiful."
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